Come explore the mysterious piece of history at Mazeppa Bay—a perfect spot for nature lovers, history buffs, and adventurers alike!

     Mazeppa Bay: A Tapestry of History, Culture, and Adventure

     Nestled along South Africa’s rugged Wild Coast, Mazeppa Bay is a hidden gem that boasts a rich history and breathtaking natural beauty. Known for its pristine beaches, dramatic landscapes, and rustic suspension bridge connecting the mainland to an island, Mazeppa Bay is where history, culture, and nature intertwine. Not only with its unique name, steeped in 18th-century European history, and its role in the local culture, Mazeppa Bay is also a renowned fishing destination, attracting anglers seeking a variety of catches from its abundant waters.

     Fishing trips to Mazeppa Bay were hosted by Owen Richter of “Wild Coast Angling” and frequented by legends Leon Roos, Gerhard Van Rensburg, Willie Hattingh, Johan Grobbelaar, Deon Scholtz, and Roos’s second-best friend, the legendary Jan Jaque Rossouw. It was also featured in episode three of the first season of Extreme Fishing with Robson Green. So, whether you are looking for history, fishing or wild adventures, Mazeppa Bay has it all for you. 

     The Origins of the Name: Ivan Mazepa and the Art of Romanticism

     One of the most fascinating aspects of Mazeppa Bay is its name, which holds a significant historical reference far removed from South African shores. The bay is named after Ivan Mazepa, an enigmatic figure in European history who, although he never visited South Africa, left an enduring legacy in the world of literature and art. Born in 1639, Mazepa was a leader of the Cossack Hetmanate (the name of Ukraine at the time) and played a pivotal role in shaping the political landscape of Eastern Europe during the late 17th and early 18th centuries. Most notably, Mazepa became a symbol of resistance and independence in Ukraine due to his efforts to oppose the growing domination of the Tsardom of Russia over Cossack Ukraine in the early 18th century.

     Mazeppa was also a great patron of education and religion, supporting the establishment of numerous schools and churches in Ukraine. His contributions to the development of educational institutions and religious life are remembered as a crucial part of his leadership. Fluent in several languages, he was well-versed in European politics and literature, which influenced his cultural vision. His memory was immortalized in European literature and art, particularly in the poem Mazeppa by Lord Byron, published in 1819. Byron’s romanticised portrayal of Mazeppa’s life – especially the vivid depiction of his punishment, where Mazeppa was tied to a wild horse and left to ride across the steppes – became a powerful image in Romantic-era art. 

     While the events depicted in Byron’s poem lack historical evidence, it was widely celebrated and inspired an enduring, worldwide ‘Mazeppa cult’. Mazeppa appeared in various literary and artistic expressions, including poetry, opera, and visual art. Notable literary works have been produced by authors such as Voltaire, Victor Hugo, de Resseguier, Brecht, Juliusz Słowacki, Roy Campbell and Evan Shipman, while painters like Horace Vernet, Eugène Delacroix, Théodore Chassériau, and Théodore Géricault have dedicated their paintings to him. 

     The cultural echo of the story of Mazeppa is the reason behind the naming of Mazeppa Bay.

     Mazeppa theme in South African Literature 

     Professor Toni Voss of the University of KwaZulu-Natal (UKZN) has contributed significantly to academic studies on Mazeppa toponyms and literature in South Africa. Prof Voss highlights how Mazeppa’s tale resonated with South African writers, especially within the traditions of Romanticism and Neo-Romanticism.

     In his poem “Mazeppa”, Roy Campbell (1930) reflects on the artist as a heroic individual who must endure rejection, pain, and doubt as part of his existence. This suffering isolates him but also makes him unique, resulting in an inverted view of the world. The combination of sensitivity and experience enables genius to reach the extremes of human potential. The imagery of the union between man and horse is central to this idea. Additionally, the poem “Mazeppa” illustrates the process of poesis and creation. Campbell also recognises the historical context of the hero, using evocative terms like “Tartar prince” and “Cossacks” to enrich the narrative.

     Jacobus Johannes Groeneweg’s Maseppa, die Leeu van die Grasvlaktes (“Mazeppa, the Lion of the Steppes”, 1929) is an Afrikaans novel for young readers, adapted from Van Leent’s version. The story follows Lako, a young boy kidnapped by gypsies in revenge for his father’s cruelty. Lako earns the king’s favour by saving his horse during a coronation, but jealousy forces him to flee. He returns home and discovers his true identity as Mazeppa, the son of Count Stadnisky.

     Mazeppa finds that his mother believed dead, is imprisoned by his mad father. After being tied to a wild horse and driven into the wilderness, he is rescued by Cossacks and falls in love with Helena, the Hetman’s daughter. He ultimately rescues his mother and restores order to his family. Mazeppa then marries Helena and returns to the Cossacks.

     Groeneweg’s novel reflects South African experiences by comparing the vast steppes to the African plains. The novel also features racialised depictions of gypsies and explores themes of nature, captivity, and cultural identity, offering young readers a romanticised view of distant lands and peoples.

     The story of Mazeppa also resonates in South Africa’s folklore and place names. In 1905, Stephanus Coetzee Botha named his farm Mazeppa, located south of Middelburg, Cape. Near the farm, a bored road worker painted a white horse on a rock face in 1940. This fresco aligns with a local legend about Botha. The story goes that Stephanus, also known as Stephen Petrus Botha, supported both sides during the South African War. After his betrayal was discovered, he was tied naked to a white horse and sent back to his farm. The name Mazeppa reflects this punishment and the original Ukrainian legend of a hero striving for the integrity of his homeland and torn between opposing sides. Interestingly, the Botha family also had a connection to a ship named Mazeppa, which carried survivors of the Trichardt trek to Port Natal in 1839.

     One example is the poetry of Guy Butler, a notable figure in South African literary circles, who drew on the romantic notions of individualism and rebellion linked to Mazeppa’s tale. Butler’s works reflect the spirit of resistance and the yearning for freedom, ideals closely tied to the historical and cultural landscapes of both Ukraine and South Africa.

     The legacy of Mazeppa’s story continues to influence South African literary discourse, thanks in part to scholars like Professor Voss, who have critically examined the interconnectedness between South Africa’s literary heritage and global narratives of struggle, freedom, and identity. 

     Renowned South African poets such as Guy Butler and Douglas Livingstone explored themes of exile and freedom in their writings, with some drawing inspiration from the Mazeppa legend. Butler, in particular, admired the way Byron’s Mazeppa symbolised personal liberation, while Livingstone often reflected on human defiance against oppressive forces in nature and society. These writers used Mazeppa as a metaphor for South Africa’s fight for identity and freedom during apartheid, aligning the bay’s wild beauty with the untamed spirit of resistance.

     Additionally, the Neo-Romantic movement in South Africa has revisited the legend of Mazeppa, where the legendary Ukrainian figure serves as a symbol of human resilience. Writers like Stephen Gray and Lionel Abrahams have included Mazeppa as a representation of the individual’s struggle against societal constraints, often drawing parallels between the character’s journey and the broader fight for justice and autonomy in South African history.

     Discover the Koesan shell midden at Mazeppa Bay

     Various ethnic groups have historically inhabited the area around Mazeppa Bay, each contributing to the region’s rich cultural tapestry. The Khoi people, known for their pastoral lifestyle, were among the earliest inhabitants, navigating the challenging coastal terrain while establishing their communities along the rivers and fertile lands. 

     Just off the beach lies a small rocky island, accessible during low tide, where an ancient Khoesan shell midden stands as a unique historical landmark. This midden, formed over centuries as people discarded shells and bones from the plentiful shellfish in the area, has now transformed into a grassy mound preserved by time. Imagine the ancient inhabitants camping by the sea, casting their shell refuse into the ocean and unknowingly creating this impressive structure.

     But what makes these middens so special? Beyond their curious appearance, some believe they were built as navigational landmarks, guiding coastal dwellers back to rich shellfish areas. Others think they held spiritual significance or were simply impressive structures created to be admired from afar.

     The Xhosa, who later incorporated many Khoi individuals, established their presence in the area, particularly during the 18th and 19th centuries, as they navigated shifting territorial boundaries and political landscapes. Additionally, interactions with European settlers and traders brought new influences, with Portuguese shipwreck survivors and later British merchants engaging with the local populations, leading to a complex exchange of goods and ideas. The Wild Coast, including Mazeppa Bay, provided its inhabitants with abundant resources for fishing, hunting, and farming. 

     From the Mazeppa Schooner to Mazeppa Bay

     Mazeppa gave his name to steamboats, locomotives, fire engines and pubs. He became a Staffordshire pottery figure and a trademark and was emblazoned on snuff boxes. Byron’s yacht was christened Mazeppa. At any time in the nineteenth century, Lloyd’s Register might list half-a-dozen sailing vessels of that name.  Mazeppa was synonymous with speed, endurance, and dramatic escapes, making it a fitting choice for a fast and agile vessel.

     The Mazeppa schooner, which gave its name to Mazeppa Bay, was built around 1830 in the United States, although the exact shipyard remains unknown. It was a topsail schooner ideal for navigating both coastal and open waters. Initially designed for the trans-Atlantic slave trade, the Mazeppa was constructed with a shallow hull and a copper-plated bottom, enhancing its performance and speed.

     The Mazeppa schooner was captured by a British anti-slavery squadron in 1836. The squadron was actively patrolling the waters off the coast of Africa to intercept vessels involved in the illegal slave trade. Following its capture, the Mazeppa underwent repairs and was repurposed for legitimate trade, marking a significant transition from its previous involvement in the slave trade​.

     In 1842, the Mazeppa schooner became involved in the conflict at Port Natal, where Boer troops besieged British forces under Captain Smith. Anchored in the harbour, the Mazeppa was seized by the Boers and converted into a floating prison for women and children while the men were taken as prisoners of war. Joseph Cato, the brother of a prominent Port Natal figure, stowed away in the forepeak among coal, ropes, and barrels to avoid capture.

     On the night of June 10th, a strong south-westerly wind allowed escape. Under Cato’s command, the Mazeppa was prepared for departure, and as the wind picked up, Cato ordered the anchors to be slipped. Despite Boer gunfire, the schooner crossed the dangerous sandbar and sailed into the open sea. After several days at sea, Mazeppa reached Delagoa Bay, where Portuguese authorities assisted with repairs. This daring escape was significant in conflict, and the Mazeppa’s return to Port Natal on June 27th coincided with British reinforcements arriving aboard H.M.S. Southampton, relieving the besieged forces.

     Mazeppa Toponym

     Mazeppa Bay began appearing on maps in the late 19th century, reflecting its gradual incorporation into South African geography. A sketch map of Fingoland and Gcaleka Country from around 1860 marked the road east from Butterworth to Mazeppa Bay. By 1877, during the last Frontier War, it was depicted as a semi-circle of “Government Reserve,” with subsequent maps noting the bay as a potential landing site for military supplies. Despite the government’s decision against using the bay for troop landings, it continued to be featured on Admiralty charts, gradually gaining recognition. By the early 20th century, Mazeppa Bay had developed into a popular seaside resort, showcasing the area’s transformation from a remote coastal location to a recognised destination on South African maps.

     Overall, the name “Mazeppa” appears in three places on the South African map.  The original toponym is Mazeppa Bay (32°S, 28°E) on the Wild Coast. The second is Mazeppa Street, which runs south from near the eastern end of Smith Street in Durban (29°S, 31°E). The Mazeppa triangle is closed at the farm Mazeppa, which lies about forty kilometres south of Middelburg, Eastern Cape (31°S, 25°E), on the Graaff-Reinet road.

     Fishing and Tourism Heritage

     Mazeppa Bay is renowned for its fishing, a tradition that has shaped the region’s identity for generations. The warm waters of the Indian Ocean attract a variety of fish species, making the bay a popular destination for both recreational and commercial fishing. From kob and shad to the praised yellowtail, anglers from all over South Africa and beyond are drawn to Mazeppa Bay for the chance to catch big game fish.

     The island, connected by a suspension bridge, is a prime fishing spot and a unique feature of the bay. Fishermen often cast their lines from the island into the deep waters below, where large fish such as sharks and kingfish are known to dwell. The bay has become a beloved destination for sport fishing, and annual fishing competitions attract enthusiasts who seek to challenge themselves in these rich waters.

     At Mazeppa Bay, visitors can immerse themselves in the area’s spectacular bird life by enjoying leisurely walks around the Hotel. A highlight is the Manubi Indigenous Forest, which is a delight for birdwatchers and plant enthusiasts alike, showcasing the local ecosystem. Another must-visit is One Mile Beach, where you can take a scenic stroll to the One Mile Rocks. This beach walk not only offers stunning views but also leads to a historic site where a WWII patrol plane crashed during an emergency landing. 

     Visitors flock to the area to escape the hustle and bustle of city life and immerse themselves in the tranquillity of the Wild Coast. The bay’s beaches, with their white sand and turquoise waters, are perfect for swimming, sunbathing, and beachcombing. The lush coastal forests and rolling hills provide ample opportunities for hiking and birdwatching, making Mazeppa Bay an ideal destination for nature lovers and outdoor enthusiasts.

     This brochure was developed by the Ukrainian Association of South Africa based on Tony Voss’s research about Mazeppa Bay as well as other sources. 

     References: 

Voss, T. (2002). “The Mazeppa Triangle.” In Nomina Africana, 16(1 and 2), Peter Raper Festschrift, pp. 222-236.

Voss, T. (2003). “Roy Campbell’s Mazeppa.” In Mazeppa and Other Poems. Pretoria: Van Schaik.

Voss, T. (2004). “Mazeppa: The Story of a Schooner.” Maritime South West, 24, pp. 144-182.

Voss, T. (2012). “Mazeppa-Maseppa: Migration of a Romantic Motif.” Tydskrif vir Letterkunde, 49(2) 

Jerardino, A. (2012). Keeping the Watchmen Watching – Faunal and Artefactual Contents at Baboon Point Terrace, West Coast. The Digging Stick, 29(2).